Book fodder: Empire Falls marks a distinct decline for Richard Russo; plus All the Way to Heaven, The Best Thing I Ever Tasted (obviously warmed-over magazine pieces but quite funny on such subjects as convenience foods, spage-age foods like Space Food Sticks, and Peg Bracken's I Hate to Cook Book; Without Reservations (mild travel but a very handsomely designed book, making liberal use of postage stamps as a design element), Headlong (Michael Frayn's U.K. best-seller that went nowhere here, and for good reason). Copacabana is grade D--who was Andy Russell?